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Knowing colour is like hanging out with good friends,
but first you must spend time with them, getting used to
their personalities and their most important, their
quirks! So let’s make friends with colour.
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Spend
more time getting to know each pigment and learn the
properties of each. Like human
personalities, they are all different and quite unique.
each pigment will perform quite differently. |
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Always add your darkest colours to the lightest ones
first. |
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Always add the most opaque pigments to the
transparent pigments, the opaque colours can take
over the mix quickly. |
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Here are
some interesting mixes for making dark values, some of
these are more interesting than using Carbon Black.
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Ultramarine Blue and Burnt Umber |
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Prussian Blue Hue and Burnt Sienna |
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Choosing greens can be the most frustrating aspect of
mixing colours, however premixed greens can never give
the artist the variety and the spectrum that can be
achieved by mixing your own. Take a look at the
paintings above and one can see the vast array of
shades, values, intensities, and hues of greens. There
are so many combinations and only experimentation will
show you your options. Here are some pigments to start
working with. Always remember that you can use any
'earth' pigment to tone or soften your mix. Add dark to
light, and start slowly. record your findings for
future painting sessions.
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Ultramarine Blue |
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Phthalo Blue |
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Phthalo Green |
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Hansa Yellow |
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Indian Yellow |
 | Raw
Umber |
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Burnt Umber |
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Carbon Black |
 | Warm
White |
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Burnt Sienna |
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Hue - The
hues that are selected for the Focal Point area must be
thought out within a set plan. As one selects the
overall colour scheme for the painting, one must
consider if these colours that are chosen for the focal
point, when used in a different form, i.e. toned, dulled
etc. Will they help to create the flow that is required
to establish the harmony and balance within the painting
as a whole. And more important, can they be used? If
blue is a colour that could possibly be used within the
Focal Point, could you use it again somewhere else,
either on another element or part of an element?
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Value - the
values of colours (how light or dark) they are, will be
strongest in the focal point, any colour that is used in
this area will have it's darkest values, along with the
lightest used in this area. If one uses these here, they
cannot be used at the same level of contrast outside
this range. Reason.... if used in the same equal value,
it will not only create distracting areas, but they will
compete with the Focal Point.
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Neadeen
Masters CDA - Country Carousel Art©
Mixing
Colour or Mixing color?
Mixing
colour and learning painting go hand in hand, as we learn and teach
more about mixing color there are a few things to try to
remember. I would like to give a few tips that will make it fun
to learn. One of the observations that I make as a teacher, is
that many students are really afraid of color, let alone mix it,
“what if I get it wrong?’ they ask. Well, the worst part of that
is you will know not to do that again! Mixing colour is all
about making discoveries and making them your friends. Seeing
the color and learning to ‘read’ what the colour really is and
how it behaves. By that I mean learning how to judge the
colour, the hue the value and the intensity? How do you know if
it is the correct mix? How do you recognize if it is right?
The only
answer to that is to get acquainted with colour. Get to know
colour intimately, just like making a new friend. You start
slow and with caution, when you become comfortable with them you
relax and have fun. Knowing colour is like hanging out with
good friends, but first you must spend time with them, getting
used to their personalities and their most important, their
quirks! So let’s make friends with colour. The first exercise to
do is to test the colour and see what happens when you mix it.
Get introduced to colour. Shake hands with it. Let’s begin…..
Mix a couple of colours together, with the palette knife drag
some of the colour across the wax palette, and see what happens
when you do this. What is the result? – take a look at the
standard colour wheel and try to determine the new hue (colour
family) Which one of the 12 hues does the new hue belong to? Is
it Red, Blue, Red Orange, Yellow Green?
Now add a
little Titanium White to it, this will reveal its personality.
Take your palette knife and ‘flash it’ or ‘drag it’ out across
the wax palette – this will spread the colour out on the white
paper and allows the hue to show. Record your findings on white
poster paper. Make notes – is it dull, brilliant or in between
maybe? Mix some different values of this colour by adding more
white each time. Now record what you see, is the new colour
getting lighter? Yes of course – you are adding a lightening
agent to it – Titanium White will make the value
lighter. That is for sure!
NOW, onto another matter! How
much paint? Well we need paint to be able to paint! It’s that
simple. That is, put out enough paint on your palette to work
with. You can’t do anything with little pea sized puddles. In
order to mix colour correctly, you need to have paint on your
brush. Not gobs of paint, but pick up enough paint so when you
move to the canvas or the surface you have something to leave
behind. I notice that many new painters as well as those making
the shift from oils to Traditions use too little paint. Then
when they try to brush mix, blend or deposit paint there is
nothing there to work with other than making a mark on the
surface.
Also by using
a wet palette to keep your paints hydrated will help you with
keeping interesting colours for use when you brush mix your
colours. When I brush mix, I adjust the edge of the puddle, not
the whole puddle. Remember you need to test the colour for the
result. Either take some from the main puddle and place it
somewhere else, or spread some of the colour out from your main
puddle, now by mixing on the edge of the puddle, you can see
what will happen to the colour. If you are working on a wet
palette you can keep this colour for another area of your
painting. Then if you have to adjust the colour once again
(i.e. make it brighter or lighter) you can spread out a little
more and add another colour to another side of the puddle.
Never adjust by dropping colour straight into the center of a
puddle, or you will end up with too much of the colour and if
the hue isn’t quite right will it be too hard to correct.
Whatever adjustments you make, do them slowly, and remember
these are POWERFUL artist grade pigments – they will react very
quickly so take your time and familiarize yourself with them.
On a closing
note, spend the time getting to know each pigment and learn the
properties of each. Like personalities, they are all different
and unique. Look at the inside cover of the artist Technical
Guide; it will give you the important personality traits of each
pigment in the Traditions line. From Opacity to transparency,
from temperature to value and intensity, from this you will
develop lasting friendships and some will become your best
friends and others, well, somewhat like people you will learn to
keep them at arms distance because of their overbearing nature!
Neadeen Masters
CDA©
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Where do I
put the paint on my 'wet' palette?

Layout your paint in the order it sits around the colour
wheel.
Many artists have their own ways of setting up their palettes,
that is, the actual order that the paint is laid out. The
palette serves two important purposes, yes, one is to keep the
paint hydrated, but more importantly, it is a visual 'map' to
give you shortcuts
to solving colour problems. Coming from an oil painting
background I have always had an order to my palette, which keeps
me on track, allowing me to adjust hue, value, intensity with
little effort.
By setting up the palette in the same way each time one paints,
you reinforce the theory behind the colour solution. It's like
reaching into your pantry and knowing where the cayenne pepper
is each time you need it. Imagine how frustrating it might be if
the 'chaos fairy' visited your pantry every night and rearranged
the shelves, putting the jams in place of the spices etc. The
same applies to
your palette. By repeating the same basic layout, you can
problem solve with order and method, not hit or miss. You will
be comfortable with choosing colour.
Many student painters squirt a blob of paint in a haphazard
order onto their
palette, thinking that the palette is just a place to keep paint
wet. The palette is so much more than that. In fact, after I
complete a painting, many times I will let the palette dry, and
file it with my notes, this is my reference for the future. I
can read what I did simply by referring to that old palette.
With the 'Traditions' palette, those of us who are teaching with
the
Traditions system now, are suggesting to students to lay the
colours out in the order that they come on the colour wheel.
Starting with the reds in the upper left, then oranges, yellows,
greens, etc. as you move across the top of the palette to the
right side, keeping the earth colours down the right side of the
palette (Top to bottom). There is so much more to this, and I
would have to expand on it quite a bit more, but unless you
understand why you are doing this, it would be difficult to
explain in detail in this short article.
If you have a Traditions Technical Guide book
http://jansenarttraditions.com on page 30 there is a
diagram and a written tutorial section on setting up the palette
and how to use it efficiently. It is easier for you to see the
diagram and to read the information for yourself, as you will
understand why and what the end goal of setting up the palette
in this manner is all about.
The colours are arranged in this way to teach you colour theory
as you paint, you will learn the colour names and properties
very quickly. Once again, I can't stress how valuable this book
is and should be owned by every student who desires a better
sense of colour and a greater understanding of pigments. The
'Traditions' palette map as drawn in the 'Guide', is so
effective for learning, that with little effort students see the
results quickly and by default learn colour theory without
really trying! a bonus!
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Mixing Exercise
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For a simple and effective
mixing exercise please look in the Heritage Artist winter 2006
Newsletter, on page #26. The following exercise below will help
build additional mixing skills.
See the
Heritage Artist newsletter
here
 | Use your ten
colour Traditions starter set plus Grey value #6. or mix a
medium value grey with Carbon Black and Titanium White. |
 | Get two
sheets of poster board, one white, one black. |
 | Draw and
cutout 3 large circles (bigger than a dinner plate)to make a
large circle template like a wheel. |
 | Paint one
of the 3 templates with a medium value grey. Use Traditions
Grey value 6 for this. |
 | You will now
have 3 templates, one white, one grey and one black. |
 | Divide each
template into 12 sections. |
 | Name the
sections like the 'colour wheel' starting at the top (12
o'clock) with red, then moving to the right with, red
orange, orange, yellow orange, etc. all the way around and
back to red. |
 | Draw a small
1/2" circle in the very center of this wheel. Call this your
'neutral center' |
 | As you mix
your color swatches, paint a dot of the brightest most
intense colour close to the outside rim of the wheel. As
you add more earth pigment, or black or white to each of
your mixes, paint a sample dot of the color closer to
the neutral center of the wheel. You will notice that as the
colour 'grays' or becomes 'more neutral' it will sit closer
to the 'neutral center' |
 | This will
give you a way to judge each color against black, white or
neutral grey. |
 | Happy
mixing! |
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New articles
- added Sept 12 - '06
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How to
'Brush Mix' ?
This is a simple technique and one of my favorite
methods for mixing and blending color. When one uses the
bristles of the brush to pick up two colors at the same
time and blend them together on your blending palette.
Instead of mixing one large puddle of paint with the
palette knife, think of it as mixing tiny patches of
color.
Follow this procedure when you need to use just a little
at a time to adjust an area of an object or the
painting. Brush mixing does not refer to using your
brush as a tool to stir large amounts of paint together
into one color. Students often misunderstand this term,
'brush mix' and end up ruining a perfectly good brush
this way. Brush mixing is a gentle manipulation of two
or more colors, blending them into the brush to create a
third hue.
I prefer to brush mix almost all my colors, that is to
say, instead of having huge puddles of pre-mixed colors
on the palette, I like to have fresh paint sitting on my
wet palette. I pick up a little at a time, selecting the
particular hue to control the value and intensity of the
color on my brush. I might load my brush with two or
three colors and then blend on my palette before moving
to back to the painting. This can give your work a more
'painterly appearance' as opposed to a stiffer look. It
is easier for me to correct one single brush blend than
a whole puddle of one mixture that has gone wrong! If
you are new to color theory, brush mixing can teach you
quite a lot as you make mini discoveries about each
color that you create.
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A good
background will always give the illusion that there is
distance or space between it and the subjects of the
painting. if you look at both examples the toucan
and the cow, you will see this illusion. to achieve
this, think about the value, intensity and temperature
relationship between the two. |
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Good background choice gives you the ability to create
better colour balance within the painting, as you can
then repeat some of the other colours from the design
into the background, helping with flow and movement
through the painting. Carry your colour for balance and
harmony.
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A good background also affords you the best opportunity
to create atmospheric perspective or (depth) from, and
between, the elements within the design. You can adjust
the value and temperature by 'scumbling' behind
some elements to help make them hold their position
better, within the total painting. This works especially
well for still life and florals as well as for
portraiture. |
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So what does contrast really mean?
'Contrast'
according to Webster's is:
juxtaposition
of dissimilar elements as color, tone, or emotion in a work of
art, degree of difference between the lightest and darkest parts
of a picture, the difference or degree of difference between
things having similar or comparable natures, comparison of
similar objects to set off their dissimilar qualities.' |
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Intensity -
The intensity of colours used (how dull or bright) they
are, again will be the strongest in the Focal Point
area. It's useful to include both dull and vibrant
colours within this area, as one against the other will
help to create the visual contrast that is necessary to
set this part of the painting apart in visual interest. |
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